End of my trip, nothing much to do but wander around the shops half-heartedly thinking about duty free toys to use up the last of the spending money. MD and MP3 players here and there, but none caught my eye as being just right. The Polar S710 heart rate monitor looks pretty good, but while it supposedly exists, none of the shops have seen one, one of the bike shop staff confessed to me that he doesn’t believe that any have been brought into the UK yet.
Last night I lay in bed reading until around three, so this morning I slept in until nearly eleven — so much for going away and doing anything today!
Rang Jo at noon, having completely forgotten that it was Friday night in Australia and she might be out. She was home and we could have talked for hours, both of us excited that I’ll be coming home soon.
Later in the afternoon I headed into town along the Kennet, deciding to go and see a movie, hopefully a better one than the last time I tried!
Woke to a cool gray day and light showers — the heatwave has broken, but obviously not with the semi-tropical thunderstorms the forecast had us believe.
Late in the morning I scurried into town in the drizzle to pick up a postcard for Tuesday (oops!) and then hopped on the train to Bath. I can’t make sense of the ticket prices, they seem one of the eternal mysteries of this trip.
I thought of packing up some clothes and heading up to Derbyshire to visit relatives, but it all seemed too much effort. Instead I decided to go to Oxford for the day. Caught the train there and spent an afternoon walking around and being a tourist.
Magnificent old buildings and shops. Stopped to recuperate with a beer in a lovely little pub called ‘Old Tom’ with its tiny beer garden overgrown with flower pots, petunias and fuschias.
The end is nigh! Walked in to the bike shop and picked up a bike box to lug home to Liz’ house before cleaning and packing Norky bike away in the box. With each experience comes the reminder to add more packing to the parts of the bike that protrude!
Where? Reading(51.4333333,-1.0)
Joe and Paddy picked me up at lunch time and we drove off through Henley on Thames(51.5333333,-0.9) to Hambleden for lunch. Its a fantastic little village, but with a heap of money tied up in the genteel stone houses — everything from picturesque cottages to the W.H.Smith manor house. Roast duck and a pint at the pub for lunch, then a walk around some of the lanes, then back to Henley(51.
Today I walked down the river instead of up. Off along the tow-paths to Sonning Lock. The river and banks were packed, boats and swimmers and people and dogs strolling along the paths everywhere. A pause for an ice cream in the tea gardens at Sonning(51.4666667,-0.9), and on downstream to Shiplake.
I called my uncle Joe from the pub, then spent the evening with Joe and Paddy, sitting around in their garden — a great summer evening.
Another hot lazy day, at least I managed to force myself out for some exercise! Around lunch time I decided to walk up the river to the next town, but ended up turning around on its outskirts and heading back.
The river bank was lined with hundreds of people, all there for WOMAD. Lots of hippies and ferals, narrow boats docked four deep on the banks with people walking over each other to get to their boats.
Four pm and I haven’t stepped out the door all day — hot and humid weather, yet again I’m lying on the couch reading my cousin’s novels.
Eight pm and I head out for the evening….
Ten pm and I’m home gain. Three cheap pints while sitting in the evening sun and I decided I’m just not in the mood to go out alone on a Friday night. Instead I sat around the house feeling melancholy and thinking about the nine days until I’m home again.
Again, the morning held only a comfortable couch and an escapist novel. The riding yesterday really wore me out!
I spent the afternoon shopping and emailing and walking about, then came home for a rest before going out for the evening. I’d decided to sample some beers and entertainment, so it was a couple of beers at O’neals, then a walk, then a couple of Guinnesses at the Walkabout. Franchised Irish bars to franchised Aussie ones.
dst. (km) Today 110.0 Trip total 3159.8 Today’s distance estimated.
Oooh, Guinness hangover.
Too little sleep, too little food, and too much Guinness. After a quick breakfast and goodbyes to Andy, I felt terrible for the first hour this morning back on the bike. A few pastries at a bakery seemed to fix things up a touch, from then on it was just a long day of riding, made more than a little frustrating by the maze of roads and villages that make up Surrey.
A hot sunny day, a holiday feel in the air again. Breakfast was yet another episode of the English B&B’s game of advertising a “full English breakfast,” and then seeing how small a portion of each item they can deliver.
I spent the morning walking around the Brighton Pier, then the aquarium. The aquarium was a bit of a disappointment, after reading so much about it I found it full of uncontrolled kids running around hammering on the glass and yelling at each other.
Yet another morning spent reading in Reading(51.4333333,-1.0). I seem to remember spending most of my time at Elizabeth’s house lying around on the couch reading novels. I did remember to check the clocks though, so as not to get caught and miss the train.
About lunchtime I walked into town to the station to find a train to Brighton. I had managed to cram enough clothes and stuff into my shoulder bag, including an empty pannier, to make overnight survival a non-event, and should have no problem carrying it all back tomorrow on the bike.
Lazy me sat around all day reading and watching SciFi TV. I did get out around 1 pm for a walk down the Thames and up along the Kennet canal. (That name still amuses me, depending on your political inclination, Jeff Kennet was a very popular/unpopular politician in Australia. A bit like finding a “maggie thatcher canal” I guess.)
Then foolishly, I decided to walk into town to see a movie, and chose Jurassic Park III.
Vegetated around Reading(51.4333333,-1.0) some more. I started to look in the shops for presents for myself, something to use up any outstanding spending money. The Polar Heart-rate monitors caught my eye, but I’m not sure what the prices are compared to Australia, or even if they are available:
Model GBP price AUD price S210 £130 $349 S410 £150 $399 S510 £170 $449 S610 £180 $499 S710 £200 $549 S810 £?? $849 During the day I fiddled with one of the blogging bits of software on my Palm pilot.
First success of the day — I found that the Debenhams chain store operate a decent, cheap, internet café , I managed to connect back to Monash, and to read and sort through my 950 incoming emails! Even managed to reply to the important ones and check both bank balances.
Joey’s shopping list: duty free gin Bootes ear plugs Where? Reading(51.4333333,-1.0)
Thoughts on Lille — for the first time in France I seem to have seen lots of beggars and homeless people. Maybe it’s just the first time I’ve been in a big city, maybe I just haven’t noticed. Two-star hotels, kebab shops and sex shops. Maybe I should have tried to move further away from the train station.
A big bustling city, certainly lots of construction around the two stations. French police uniforms suddenly struck me as appearing very functional, Australian and British appearing more symbolic by comparison.
Rain, more rain, then a little more rain. A fine day to be leaving the mountains.
Amazingly, we all managed to get up in time for the 8 am start, crammed everything and everyone into the van and the car and drove to Grenoble. A bizarre feeling sitting in a car and watching the world go past without having to pedal. Almost as bizarre was listening to The House of the Rising Sun playing on the radio … in French.
dst. (km) Today 39.3 Trip total 3159.8 Odometer 85.2 We left Vaujany around 10:00 to ride up to l’Alpe d’Huez. Some chose the route via Bourg d’Oisans and the main climb, the rest of us headed up to Villard Reculas and then around the side of the mountain to Huez. The unfenced vertiginous drop off the side of the road was too much for some, Richard flat out refused to ride on the right hand side and sidled along the wrong side of the road, hugging the rock walls.
dst. (km) Today 45.01 Trip total 3120.5 Odometer 45.0 The pizza last night for dinner was a very bad idea. It stayed in me about an hour. The stomach pains and poor sleep lasted the whole of the rest of the night. This morning I feel a little better, but very weak, not having eaten much for the last two days.
On the plus side, it has stopped raining and the fog looks like it might clear up.
dst. (km) Today 0.0 Trip total 3075.5 Odometer 179.8 I wasn’t feeling well this morning and slept in quite late. There were assorted bad dreams, I nearly fell out of bed a couple of times, and I’m still feeling quite bloated from the meal last night. Skipped breakfast and stayed in bed, watching the rain.
Around 10.30 am I walked up the street to see what all the noise was about that had finally woken me up.
dst. (km) Today 61.67 Trip total ?? Odometer 145.4 Where? Les Egats, Valbonnais, Le Périer, Chantelouve, Col d’Ornon (1371m), Borg d’Oisans, l’Alpe d’Huez(45.1,6.0666667).
dst. (km) Today 83.6 Trip total ?? Odometer 83.6 Where? Menglon(44.6666667,5.4666667), Chatillon en Diois, Menee, Les Nonières, Col de Menée (1402m), Bellegarde, Clelles, Mens, Col de Accarias (892m), St Jean d’Hérans(44.85,5.7666667), Les Egats
dst. (km) Today 0.0 Trip total ?? Odometer 0.0 Bloody cheap bike computers! The stupid thing completely reset itself today.
Where? Vaison la Romaine(44.2333333,5.0666667) Mirabel, Les Pilles, Sahune, Remuzat, Cornillon, La Motte, La Charce, Establet, Col de Prémus (903m), Jonchères, Luc en Diois, Luzeron, Menglon(44.6666667,5.4666667)
dst. (km) Today 97.69 Trip total ?? Odometer 2790.1 Somewhere along the descents my bike computer stopped reading anything. I was too busy to readjust it at the time!
Where? Avignon(43.95,4.8166667) Parnes, Carpentras, Bédoin, Mont Ventoux (1912m), Vaison la Romaine(44.2333333,5.0666667)
dst. (km) Today 75.3 Trip total ?? Odometer 2585.1 Where? Florac(44.75,3.75), Col de Faisses (1020m), L’Hospitalet, Le Pompidou, St Roman de aTousque, Col de l’Exil (704m), Col de St Pierre (597m), St Jean du Gard
dst. (km) Today 105.8 Trip total ?? Odometer 2509.8 Packed up this morning in drizzling rain. Everything is damp. Everything smells.
Where? St Geniez d’Olt(44.4666667,2.9833333) St Saturnin, Col de Lagarde (810m), Altes, Massegros, St Rome de Dolan, La Malène, Pounadoires, St Enimie, Prades, Blajoux, Le Chembonnet, Ispagnac, Florac(44.75,3.75)
dst. (km) Today 91.4 Trip total ?? Odometer 2404.0 Where? Conques(44.6,2.4) Grand Vabre, St Projet, Viellevie, Entraygues, Estaing, Espalion, St Come d’Olt, Lassouots, Ste Eulalie d’Olt, St Geniez d’Olt(44.4666667,2.9833333)
dst. (km) Today 0.0 Trip total ?? Odometer 2312.6 Breakfasting in torrential rain at St Cere Rain stops play.
After a restless night spent listening to the rain hammering on the tents and the gurgle of the rising river, we were all relieved to wake up and find that we still had a campsite! I think everyone was aware of just how close that river was, and how flat and low-lying the campsite.
dst. (km) Today 97.31 Trip total ?? Odometer 2312.6 Yay, it was cool and overcast this morning!
The ride out of Sarlat was remarkably easy, no problems getting through either the town or the traffic. The first 30km just flew past.
Boulangerie and bicycles in St. Julien de Lampon We stopped for pastries and coffee at St. Julien de Lampon and were served by a very grumpy lady in the bakery, then back outside were we sat in the square and watched as other cycle groups passed us in both directions.
dst. (km) Today 125.7 Trip total ?? Odometer 2214.9 Before leaving I tried to take a few more photos of Limeuil this morning to try and compare the different lighting on the town. I’m not sure how they look, I just know it was a beautiful campsite.
Where? Limeuil(44.8833333,0.9), Le Bugue, Savignac de Miremont, Rouffignac, Plazac, Thonac, Montignac, St Léon sur Vézère, La Roque St Cristophe, Les Eyzies, St Cyprien, Beynac et Cazenac, Sarlat(45.
dst. (km) Today 129.4 Trip total ?? Odometer 2088.8 Limeuil had a magnificent campground on the banks of the Dordogne, we were directly across the river from the town, but it would have taken a very strong swimmer to make it across. The river was shallow, but very strongly flowing, I walked in up to my knees, dived in facing upstream, and came up ten metres downstream from where I started!
dst. (km) Today 88.7 Trip total ?? Odometer 1959.4 After breakfast there was a flurry of activity in unpacking and making ready the twenty bikes. The hotel had very nicely given us the use of their conference room to avoid having to do all this outside. I was lucky here, after a month on the road, everything on my bike was sorted out as well as it could be!
dst. (km) Today 0.0 Trip total ?? Odometer 1870.7 Hangover time, last night there were far too many Newkie Browns with Debra and Nick (Irish barmaid and Welsh traveller) at Dick Turpin’s — an English theme pub. Debra kept trying to embarrass guys by flirting with all the guys in the pub and making jokes about her exceptionally large bust. I’d met Nick and another Welsh guy a few days ago in Nantes, but didn’t recognize them at first.
dst. (km) Today 0.0 Trip total ?? Odometer 1870.7 The English guys managed to flood our room three times this morning by overflowing the shower! Somehow the sign telling people not to turn the shower up too high just wasn’t getting through. They were going to the beach for the day and invited me to go with them. When I got to the station it all started to look too hard, the trains too infrequent, so I changed my mind and sat down to have a coffee.
dst. (km) Today 0.0 Trip total ?? Odometer 1870.7 I’m not sure if I’m getting better or not! There’s less phlegm, but more cough, maybe all that beer and wine and the smoky bar last night was the correct way to treat bronchitis!
I got in earlier today and paid my 160FF to take my chances on the winery tour. It turned out to be more of a chateau drive-by bus trip, with two winery visits thrown in.
dst. (km) Today 0.0 Trip total ?? Odometer 1870.7 Bronchitis hit me hard this morning, coughing and wheezing and spitting for an hour or more when I woke up. I was feeling sorry for myself and equally sorry for the others sharing the room.
Spent much of the day being a tourist and walking around, by lunch time I wasn’t sure whether my aching legs were from cycling, walking, or just from being sick.
dst. (km) Today 151.09 Trip total ?? Odometer 1870.7 Good news or bad news first? The good news is that sometime during the night it finally cooled down and now is slightly overcast and around 20°C. Perfect weather for cycling. The bad news is that my cold is now much worse, probably bronchitis judging by the coughing and spitting!
Fantastic weather to ride in, cool and a light mist, so little that nothing stayed damp, just enough to keep me cool.
dst. (km) Today 95.41 Trip total ?? Odometer 1719.6 I’d left La Rochelle with a vague idea of riding to Bordeaux today, optimistically managing to mis-read the map. At lunchtime as I neared Rochefort I saw that it was another 160km! Decided to make for Saintes instead, and only just made it there, during the afternoon the temperature just kept on climbing, around 35 °C I guess.
I found a bike track this morning that ran from La Rochelle to Rochefort, but as with bike tracks everywhere it didn’t seem to have enough signs and I managed to lose it a couple of times.
dst. (km) Today 0.0 Trip total 1455.0 It was nice to wake up and not have to pack up and move. Michael and I walked around for an essential visit to the laundromat, then spent the morning sitting on the beach watching the girls go by.
The beach and the bay looked fantastic, but as the tide went out we saw that the sand ended at the waters edge, and it was all mud and rocks from there out!
Vanity site? Technology experiment? Learning tool? Blog? Journal? Diary? Photo album? I could tell you, but then I’d have to kill you…
I experiment. I play. I write and I take pictures. Some of the site is organised around topics, other parts are organized by date, then there’s always the cross-references between them.
Its all been here a fairly long time. Like the papers on my desk, or the books on the bedside table, the pile just grew… and it all grew without much plan or structure. I try not to break URLs, so historical oddities abound.
Long ago it started as a learning experiment with a few static HTML pages, then I added a bit of server-side includes and some very ugly PHP. A hand-built journal/blog on top of that PHP, then a few experiments in moving to various static publishing systems. I’ve never wanted a database-based blogging engine, so over the years I’ve tried PHP, nanoblogger, emacs-muse, silkpage and docbook before settling on Emacs Org mode for writing and jekyll for publishing. But the itch remained… I never really liked jekyll and the ruby underneath always seemed so much black magic. So now the latest incarnation is Org mode and hugo.
